What Affects the Final Bill
Several variables can push the price above the standard range. Contaminated porous materials such as drywall, carpet, padding, ceiling tiles, and insulation must be removed and disposed of, which adds 1 to 4 dollars per square foot. HVAC cleaning, which involves HEPA vacuuming the ductwork, replacing the air handler insulation, and sanitizing the coils, adds 500 to 3,000 dollars. Contents cleaning, which involves moving, cleaning, and storing furniture and personal belongings, adds 500 to 2,500 dollars. Sewage contamination, which is classified as Category 3 water damage, requires additional safety precautions and adds 1,000 to 5,000 dollars. Permit fees vary by municipality but are usually 50 to 300 dollars.
How to Test for Mold
Mold testing is optional but recommended for any job larger than 10 square feet, for any job with a musty odor, and for any job that involves a sensitive occupant. An air sample test by an IICRC certified mold inspector runs 100 to 300 dollars per sample and compares the indoor spore count to the outdoor spore count. A surface sample test, also called a tape lift or swab, runs 50 to 150 dollars per sample and identifies the species of mold. The most common test is a combination air and surface sample, which costs 300 to 600 dollars. The inspector should not also be the remediator, since that is a conflict of interest.
How to Prevent Mold From Coming Back
The single most important step is to fix the underlying moisture problem. Common sources include a leaking roof, a leaking pipe, a failed sump pump, poor drainage around the foundation, high indoor humidity, and inadequate ventilation in bathrooms and kitchens. A dehumidifier in a damp basement can keep humidity below 50 percent and prevent mold growth. A bathroom exhaust fan that runs for 20 minutes after a shower can prevent bathroom mold. A kitchen exhaust fan that vents to the outside can prevent cooking moisture from condensing on walls. A hygrometer costs 10 to 30 dollars and is the cheapest tool for monitoring humidity throughout the home.
How to Pick a Mold Remediation Contractor
Look for a contractor certified by the IICRC as an Applied Microbial Remediation Technician, or AMRT, or by the American Council for Accredited Certification as a Certified Mold Remediator, or CMR. Confirm the company carries general liability insurance, workers compensation, and pollution liability coverage, since mold work involves chemical agents and contaminated materials. Ask for at least three references from the last 6 to 12 months and follow up. Get a written scope of work that lists the containment, the removal, the cleaning, the disposal, the post remediation test, and the underlying moisture fix. Avoid any contractor that offers to do the testing and the remediation, since that is a conflict of interest.
What to Do If You Find Mold Yourself
If you find a small patch of mold under 10 square feet, the EPA recommends cleaning it yourself with detergent and water. Wear an N95 respirator, gloves, and eye protection. Open windows for ventilation. Scrub the mold off hard surfaces with a mixture of detergent and warm water, then dry the area completely. Discard porous materials such as drywall, carpet, and ceiling tiles that have been wet for more than 48 hours, since they cannot be reliably cleaned. Fix the underlying moisture problem before the area is closed up. If the mold returns quickly, or if the area is larger than 10 square feet, or if anyone in the home is having respiratory symptoms, call a professional remediator.
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Fazlur Rahman
